Signs 1
The road trip began. We set out on our long journey from Thimpu to Tashi Yangtse, mounting the first heights overlooking Bhutan’s small capital city. Within a few twists and turns of the road, we were consumed by forest and mountain, wild rock and broad sky. As we rounded that first curve on a road that led steeply away from human habitation, a black Yak came into sudden view. It was unusual to see these wonderful creatures at this low elevation and so near the city. Yet as we rounded that bend, we saw all five black yaks and a central all-white one—facing towards us as we mounted the hill. No eating, not moving, just staring back at us, as our  truck bounced past them. Had we seen their rears, it would have been a different sign to us, but their welcome gaze cheered and delighted us. We knew that MaChik and the five-deity mandala of Troma would guide our path from here onwards.

Signs 2
Climbing over our first low pass, we entered the rich alluvial valley of Wangdi Potang. At the confluence of the MoChu and PoChu—the Father River and Mother River—this is one of the massive fortresses cum monasteries that define this land, uniting secular, military and spiritual power under a common roof. As we stepped out of the truck, a light rain began to fall out of a sky of bright clouds. We took this as a positive sign, a rain of blessings and welcome. Once inside the great courtyard, we explored many wondrous inner chambers and temples, thanks to Rinpoche’s seeming endless supply of old friends everywhere we went. Climbing through a labyrinth of steps and halls, we looked down from our second floor rampart to a vast chamber of monks, bright red cloaks seated in rows. The sounds of chanting, sonorous drums and cymbals echoed, as they performed the practice of great Protectress, Palden Lhamo. We felt fortunate indeed to chance upon this homage to the most important Female Protector of dharma and of Tibet.

Just as we returned back to our vehicle across the ancient wooden bridge, the sun broke through, a golden light playing on the wet ground, sky and earth again in dialogue with our actions and experience. Then, just as we began to ascend towards the next high pass, the weather put on a fierce display. Rain fell—but not down. The wind drove it horizontal, and ice began to pelt our windscreen. Yet the sun continued to shine, as we drove through simultaneous wind, hail and rain. The river appeared below us on the left as we climbed over the ridge, and there the maelstrom subsided. Their proud show of immense power at an end, the Five Elements showed themselves nakedly. The rainbow stretched in a full arc, touching the sparkling river at each end and arching over gold and green fields, where valley gave way to forests, broken by the gray skeletal bones of the mountain and dotted with gleaming white houses where someone lived and breathed and thought.